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Antigua to Panama - Leg 1 Part 4
By: Geoff On: 02/03/2013 21:04:05 In: Uncategorised
Panama Canal and Transit

Monday 11th February 2013

We were up reasonably early to turn the boat around in order that we were bow to wind to get the mainsail down. This operation was completed relatively quickly and smoothly with the assistance of many hands helping from the other boats. The ripped sail looked better than it did in mid-Caribbean at night! We spoke with a French sailmaker who was unable to even look at the sail before we transited so we discussed it with the marina manager who was trying to arrange for another sailmaker to visit and quote us for a repair to keep it as a spare.

Michael and Serena, from Fario were still unsure of whether they wanted to continue the rally. Having sat quietly with them discussing the options, we suggested it might do them good to get away from the boat for a couple of days to be on their own, which they did.

Tuesday 12th February 2013

While waiting for the marina's sailmaker, we busied ourselves around the boat doing odd jobs in an effort to reduce Susan's ongoing jobs list. The sailmaker didn't show.

Wednesday 13th February 2013

Fario's guests Pipa and Andrew were arranging a surprise 60thbirthday party for Serena's return that evening. They had got balloons and banners and decorated the boat and the bar in anticipation of her return. We had all been requested to 'dress the boats' for the occasion and most did so.

It was a good party that lasted until quite late.

Thursday 14th February 2013

Another early start as we were booked on the marina bus to go shopping at the Rey supermarket. We wandered around with Paul and Trish from Babe before getting a pick-up truck taxi back to the marina, loaded with our supplies. On the way back we stopped of at the Visitor Centre at Gatun Locks to watch a few ships pass through the canal. It was a great insight into what we would be doing in a couple of days time.

Friday 15th February 2013

Skippers briefing was held at 09:00 upstairs in the marina building and covered the details regarding the transit, how the rafting should go and who would be rafted with who and the order of the rafts through the canal.

The 'Elegant Pirate Party' was to follow with buses leaving the marina at 11:30 to take us to Fort Lorenzo. Oyster had been granted special permission to hold the party at this location in the National Park. It had been arranged earlier than had been originally anticipated to give everyone a chance to recover as the transits would start the following morning. It was a good change as everyone needed the additional recovery time!

Virtually everyone had made the effort to dress-up as best they could with the limited resources available. Some people had obviously got the outfits and jewellery for such an event others had to improvise. It turned out to be a great party in a wonderful location with all of the staff from the marina restaurant playing their part. 

Saturday 16th February 2013

We had offered our services to Babe as line handlers for their transit of the canal. As they were in the first group, it was an ideal opportunity to gain firsthand experience before doing it ourselves. Susan got cold feet having worked herself up about getting cabins ready for the line handlers who would be joining us for our own transit, remaining to complete this task in her own good time and at her own pace!

I joined Babe and we left at around midday. The process of the transit was very similar to our own which is more fully described later. I was given the bow to look after during the transit. It was very hot and very little shade.

The first night was spent at anchor, just inside Gatan lake.

Sunday 17th February 2013

We continued on the second day, starting at 05:30 in the morning! Passing through Gatan Lake and through the Pedro Miguel and Miraflores locks into the Pacific to anchor at Plas Playita.

Caught the Oyster organised bus back to Shelter Bay Marina which left at 18:00 and arrived about 20:15. Susan was waiting for our return having booked a table which was then given to somebody else. We secured another with the help of Juan, 'the meat man', and had the evening special of ribeye steaks with jacket potatoes, sweetcorn and spring onions. There was a very good live band playing all evening on the hard between the marina and the terrace of the restaurant.

Monday 18th February 2013

When we started the computer this morning, the screen was blank. We discovered that shinning a high-powered torch into the screen showed the desktop icons still there and everything still working. It appeared to be a problem with the monitor not illuminating. It was just possible to use but so difficult as it took ages shinning the torch around the screen looking of the mouse!

We asked in the marina office, the Oyster support team and other boats to see if anyone had a S-video lead for us to plug the computer into the saloon TV to use as a separate monitor but were unable to come up with any combination of cable and adaptors that would work. We resolved that a new computer would have to be purchase once through the canal and able to get into Panama City.

Our line-handlers for our transit were Paul from Babe, Cathy and Dave from Wolfound who were due to arrive on the bus from Las Playita around 20:00 so we went up to the marina restaurant to secure a table ready for them. We had a fun evening until they started to run out of beer and wine and wanted to close early. A sure sign that we were the last Oysters to leave the marina!

Tuesday 19th February 2013

Panama Canal Transit! We had been instructed to be at 'The Flats' anchorage by 13:00 to await the pilots/advisor joining the individual boats. We started the engine at 11:45 and left the pontoon at 12:00 for the short motor to 'The Flats'. We had to call Cristobell control before crossing the main channel and report to them on arrival at the anchorage which was by 12:45. They gave us a time on-board for the advisors of 15:15 so we had some time to eat and relax before their arrival.

Our advisor was Ahmed who instructed us that we would be rafted with Sulana and Purusha, as intended by the original Oyster plan. He also advised that we had plenty of time to get to the approaches of Gatan Locks as our transit time had been put back to 16:30. As we approached the locks, we rafted up with Sulana in the centre, Purusha to starboard and ourselves to port. The order of rafts in the locks was decided amongst the advisors and our raft was last in. Roy, the controlling advisor on the centre boat Sulana, controls the raft and was very able as we had seen a couple of days before.

It was quite an experience to enter the first lock on your own boat. Susan and Paul were in control of our bow while Cathy and Dave looked after our stern. The rafting procedure involved taking and securing bow and stern lines from Sulana then giving them our springs to secure. Once the raft was assembled the outer boat would control the direction of the raft - similar to driving a catamaran - by use of the wide-apart props either in forward or reverse. The centre boat would provide the forward motion and speed of the raft. There were a few moments learning for some as they seemed not to understand this principal and kept using bow thrusters which only served to confuse our progress by driving bows apart making the whole raft more uncontrollable, but we seemed to be doing as well if not slightly better than the other rafts. Bow thrusters came into play again a couple of times when concentration lapsed and gave way to the assumption they were on their own rather than in a raft but we had a smooth transit of the
first locks in three stages that took us up 87 feet from the Atlantic side to Gatan Lake. Once through the locks, we turned to port, heading east to take up a large mooring buoy, which we shared with a French boat, in 20 meters of water at 9° 15.7' N 79 54.1' W 
by 17:00 having logged 6.01 miles from Shelter Bay Marina.

Wednesday 20th February 2013

There had been some confusion the previous evening when Ahmed had told us to be ready for their arrival at 06:30 in the morning whereas Roy had told us they would arrive before 06:00. I was up at 05:30 and made sure the rest of the crew were up half an hour later. Susan and Paul were not impressed when the pilot boat didn't show until after 06:30! We had the same advisors for the second day in our raft.

On arrival Ahmed had some coffee and then we were ready to slip the mooring at 07:15. One of our mooring lines become snagged on the buoy so Dave stepped onto it to retrieve the line. While he was busy untangling it, he failed to notice the boat drifting away from him and became stranded on his own island! We checked with Cathy who admitted that although sorely tempted to leave him there, she really did want him back so we
motored back round to pick him up - but not until  after taking advantage of such a wonderful photo opportunity!

We followed the main shipping channel through the lake, as the small ships channel was closed and being cleared of trees that were still appearing - some still standing underwater - some 100 years after the area was first flooded in 1912  by damming of the area to form the lake in the valley, the original course of the Chagres river.

Our route took us around the tropical reserve of Islas Barro Colorado where the Smithsonian Institute has a research station, on to Gamboa which is the mid-canal town where they service and refuel tugs boats and store most of the canal maintenance equipment. It is also where the river Chagres flows into Gatan Lake providing the main source of fresh water, used at the rate of 101,000 cubic meters (26.7 million US gallons) of water, for each transit.

It was here at Gamboa we learnt that our transit time for the second locks that would take us down to the Pacific at Pedro Miguel and Miraflores, had been put back to 12:40 and we had to slow down. Most of the boats in front of us, including Luna who for some unexplainable reason had raced through the whole fleet from last but one to first, were now taking up buoys at  Gamboa being unable to slow their progress. After Gamboa we entered 'The Gaillard Cut' which was the scene of so much loss of life in the construction of the canal, one hundred years before. For the complete length of 'The Cut' we drifted with only the occasional engagement of the prop to keep us on the right hand side of the canal and clear of other vessels. We were to reform our rafts at the Paraiso Reach after passing under the Puente Centenario suspension bridge in preparation for the Pedro Miguel Locks which would start to lower us towards the Pacific.

The raft advisor Roy, had decided we would enter the locks first this time as there had been so much messing about the previous day at Gatan Locks. The raft formation was completed quickly and we motored forward until almost upon the closed lock gates. We had a while for the rest of the rafts to get secured before the gates were closed behind the last raft and the water level reduced to that of the next lock.

Once out of the Pedro Miguel lock we motored forward, the short distance, as a raft through the Miraflores Lake to the Miraflores Locks where Debbie from Oyster was waiting on the side at the Visitors area together with Alma, the official photographer. Moments later at 14:25 the final lock gates opened and we were in the Pacific!

Our raft split and we motored under the Bridge of the Americas to the anchorage at Las Playita arriving at 15:30 and dropping the hook in 6.3 meters at 8° 54.5' N 79° 31.6' W. We had logged 31.4 miles from Shelter Bay Marina where we left the day before.

Thursday 21st February 2013

Went ashore via the dinghy dock at Las Playita marina and a taxi to the Albrook Mall to look for a new computer and an S-video lead to connect the old one to the saloon TV as a monitor. We were successful in getting the computer but not the lead. We got the computer from Multimax where we were ably assisted by Hazel Henry, a local girl of 24 who plays soccer in her spare time, who arranged for their technicians to install Windows 8 Pro on the machine for us before we left with it. We also purchased a new USB3 tetrabyte drive for transferring data from the old machine. There was an Apple Store opposite and we took the opportunity to purchase a new iPod on which to load our increasing music collection.

Friday 22nd February 2013

Most of the day was spent on the new computer, getting to grips with Windows 8 then, using Windows Easy Transfer, copying old data from the old machine to a tetrabyte drive then transferring it to the new computer.

Saturday 23rd February 2013

Most of the morning was spent ashore by the supermarket at La Playita installing McAfee, Skype, Sailmail and iTunes. It appeared that we didn't have any version of Microsoft Office included on the new laptop so returned to the boat to install the 2007 version we had the discs for. On the way back we found Stephen and Debbie at El Rancherio were we had lunch with them.

That evening we were invited for 'snacks' aboard Babe. Paul had decided to cook a meal for six but had invited sixteen so the portions were reduced accordingly and a general call went out to bring your own plates, cutlery and glasses! It was a good evening!

Sunday 24th February 2013

An early start was made from the anchorage to Las Perlas islands by Amelie, Dreams Come True, Yantina and Pearl of Persha followed later in the day by Wolfhound and Valentine. All of a sudden, the Oyster fleet at anchorage here in La Playita was depleted.

We again went ashore to complete setting up the new computer. Managed to get Outlook installed and working with all the email addresses so eventually we became up to date.

We had a quiet evening resting after the mind numbing and mentally exhausting process of getting a new computer to work!

Monday 25th February 2013

Return of the OWR radio-net. Many whales, sharks and jellyfish reported by those already in Las Perlas islands. Quester already left there for Galapagos while Yantina and Dreams both have to come back to Panama City, Ian for his new generator and Dreams for the return of the skipper Paul who had returned to the UK for business.

The morning soon passed with Susan pottering around the boat cleaning and tidying while I tried to catch up with this log.

Babe went off to Flamenco Marina for fuel and water and Craisy Daisy returned to the anchorage.

Tuesday 26th February 2013

We had to be on the dinghy dock by 09:00 with our gas bottle for it to be refilled. Also Juan 'the meat man' was bring our fillet steaks for the freezer. Once the meat was in the freezer on the boat, we returned to the dock at La Playita and got a cab around to Flamenco marina to check out the chandlers and have a look around. The wasn't much there so we returned to Mi Ranchito to log-on and do our emails. The latest update on our mainsail was that Al should be able to deliver it to Las Playita tomorrow afternoon!

Babe had gone off to Las Perlas for a couple of days while Yantina had returned to collect new crew and chase up their new generator. Crew member Chris, together with his daughter - a friend of Eddie's - were kind enough to have brought out our post which Pat had recently forwarded to them back in the UK.

We laid down for a mid-afternoon siesta when we got back to the boat and before we knew, it was 19:00 and almost dark. Alain came round from Lippy having just successfully completed their transited that afternoon. We lifted the dinghy for the night, had a meal and turned in exhausted!

Wednesday 27th February 2013

Back to the dinghy dock for 09:00 again to collect the refilled gas bottle ($8) and drop off the petrol cans which would be returned full tomorrow. Carried on with odd jobs and cleaning until we hear from our importing agent that our new sail had cleared customs and he was waiting for us at the customs office near to the dinghy dock. We dropped everything and rushed across to meet him. Debbie and Eddie from Oyster met us there and we took delivery of the new sail for the $290 fee to our agent Al. With it loaded up in the dinghy, we got it back to the boat and loaded onto the aft deck ready to put up tomorrow - wind allowing!

A little later the wind reduced and we managed to get down the sun-awning, the ropes for which were filthy black. We gathered it together and stowed it in the forward cabin where Susan cleaned the black ropes and left them to dry overnight.

We went ashore to check our emails but were unable to get any internet. we sat with the crewof Yantina who were meeting up at Mi Ranchito for diner after some of them had been into town. We joined them for something to eat before returning to the boat for an early night.

Thursday 28th February 2013

Up early at 07:00 to get everything ready to fit the new main sail. Tools, tape, locking wire, shackles etc. all prepared then across to the dinghy dock by 09:00 to collect our re-filled petrol tank and collect Debbie and Eddie who were coming across to help with the sail.

By 10:00 the new sail was on and furled away. Eddie, Simon and Chloe came across from Yantina to help us and we were all in the cockpit having coffee and biscuits.

Around midday we used the credit we had left on the sat-phone to call my mother and Sue's parents. We were extremely sad to learn that Sue's cousin, Nicky, had finally succumbed after a long fight with cancer and passed away yesterday morning. We made a brief call to Auntie Liz to send our condolences and let them know our thoughts are with them at this tragic time.

That evening we went to the old town,  to a 'typical Panamanian' restaurant called Diablicos where they had a live band
and dance troupe in national costume. ( www.degustapanama.com/restaurante/diablicos_366.htm )