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Antigua to Panama - Leg 1 Part 3
By: Geoff On: 02/03/2013 20:31:06 In: Uncategorised
The San Blas Islands approaching the Panama Canal

Saturday 2nd February 2013

We were up at a reasonable time as we still had to check-in with the officials. It became clear as to why they wouldn’t process us the night before – now being a Saturday we had to pay the Immigration officer $20 overtime and the Port Captain another $20 for his overtime, in addition to the $100 Immigration fee and $195 cruising permit!

 

 

 

That done, I call at Yantina on the way back to thank them for their hospitality the previous night. Ian had been having some problems with his generator and had sheared a bolt when refitting its water pump. I had a look at it with him and thought we would be able to remove the sheared stud with the ‘easy-outs’ I had on the boat. We took some time drilling a suitable hole in the stud before attempting to unscrew it with the ‘easy-out’ extractors. Every time it felt like the extractor was biting and beginning to turn, it just cut metal out turning the edge of the drilled hole into a neat countersink!

Back to our boat to get the taps and die set and check on the drill size for an 8mm x 1.25 thread. Ian carefully opened the drilled hole by 0.5mm at a time and each time we tried the extractor until we were out to 6.5mm and then tried to tap out the remaining thread. At first we couldn’t get the tap to start and had to give it a lead by opening to 7.0mm. With a lot of patient and concentrated effort the tap started into the old thread of the block gradually cutting out the thread of the old bolt. Ian looked mighty relieved when it was completed and a new bolt tried which fitted perfectly. I left him with some gasket sealer to refit the water pump and get the generator running again while I returned to the boat for breakfast with Susan.

Twenty minutes later, Ian had his crew Richard drop him off in the dinghy. He looked really despondent. Having refitted the water pump he started the generator to find water coming out of the side of the block. On further inspection it appeared that a core plug on the side of the block had a hole in it through which water was pouring. We sat and discussed it over a coffee and tried to cheer him up, explaining that we had a fix that could save his world. We returned to Yantina with may two-pack plastic metal repair kit and were able to apply it to the area of the leak and suggested leaving until the morning to set hard before filling the water system and see if it still  leaked.

We suggested going ashore that evening for a drink in the village – knowing that it’s good to get off the boat when you’ve had a day full of setbacks. While we had been at work, Aequitas with Craig, Katherine and Kirsten together with Chinook with Brian and Dave had both arrived in the anchorage. Eddy went around asking everyone if they wanted to join us ashore for a beer which they did. We had a thoroughly great evening with chicken or fish to eat and all returned for another good night’s sleep.

Sunday 3rd February 2013

Immediately following the radio net, Ian filled the water system of his generator – there was still a small leak, reduced but still a leak. The problem was getting the plastic metal into the recess of the core plug where it had rusted through close to top. It was impossible to see the hole and almost impossible to reach it with the filler. They resolved to leave it to dry out again and apply more later.

 

 

We decided to travel East with Yantina and visit Coco Bandero so set off between Chichime Cays and Limon Cays through the Canal Eden, passing
South of the Holandes Cays before rounding Guarladup and doubling back to enter the anchorage, between there and Olosicuidup, from the East. We attempted to anchor there three time but were unable to get our QCR to hold in the fine sand.

Eddie came over from Yantina to give us a hand and dive the anchor. Although the anchor was partially ‘in’ and behind a log on the bottom, as soon as we reversed to dig it in fully, it ploughed through the log, splitting it in half and still not digging in. We thought we would try another position to the North between Olosicuidup and Tiadup but were unable to set it there either. Having failed six attempts we decided to take Ian’s kind offer to moor alongside Yantina. Once there, we took our anchor out on the dinghy and dropped it shoreside of another big log. This time it did dig-in and were spent a quiet evening rafted together.

 

 

Susan played Canaster with Ian, Eddie and Sally waiting for midnight when they opened a bottle of champagne to celebrate with me for my birthday.

Daily run – 17 miles; Position 09 30’ N 78 37’ W; Wind NNE F4;

Monday 4th February 2013

My birthday! Due to the late night drinking and playing cards, Susan was not in the best of form in the morning. We had found that the preventer line, on the starboard side, had worn through both the sprayhood and bimini where it had draped over the stainless steel pipes making up their frame.

We were originally going to repair these with Weathermax but Susan was getting frustrated  when she couldn’t get the needle through the material. Ian suggested we try spinnaker repair tape which we did and it appeared to solve the problem until we are able to get the sewing machine from
Richard Smith on Sotto Vento.

Ian and Richard had managed to get some more plastic metal in to the leaking core-plug of his generator and finally get it running. They ran virtually all day to charge their batteries, which were down around 50%, make some water and run the washing machine. They were so pleased to have it running again with no leaks!

I took Susan to a close by desert island, during the afternoon, it was maybe thirty meters across with just two palm trees on it.

  

Close by there is a wreck of a freighter with its bow high in the air from when it was driven onto the reef some years earlier. We then went over to Guarladup  where we had been told the snorkelling was really good. I managed to get Susan floating in the shallow water pulling herself along with her hands on the sand. I went off further out and found several large starfish and some black and yellow angel fish. On the way back to Susan and the dinghy I found another starfish that I thought Susan would be able to see so called her over and helped her to float while looking at it. I though from the commotion she made that she was in the process of drowning but it just turned out to be her excitement at suddenly seeing the starfish!

During the afternoon Fario turned up and anchored close by. Michael was there with Serina their friends Andrew Pippa and their new young crew Richard and Josie. They said they heard it was my birthday and thought they better come find us to help celebrate in style. At 18:00 we had a tot of Pussers followed by a few drinks on Yantina. Fario’s crew had remained onboard to cook their dinner which they departed for after a couple of drinks.

Ian, with the assistance of Sally then served up a wonderful meal comprising of a starter of cheese and capers with a dash of chilli served on toasties and mussels on toasties. This was followed by steak and rice and then their ‘piece de la resistance’ blackberry crumble and cream – the blackberries from Ian’s own garden! It was a wonderful birthday meal in a beautiful location and topped off with a leaving present of a freshly baked loaf of bread, to take back to Spent, instead of a birthday cake!

Tuesday 5th February 2013

It was a slow start to the day after the night before.

We had poached eggs on toast made from the fresh bread birthday present – delicious! During the morning we pottered. Susan cleaned some of the stainless steel and discovered the snap shackle on the port preventer had distorted and not working correctly. I had to cut it off the splice on the deck line and refit a new one.

A local boat arrived in the anchorage with a trader who was finally able to supply us with ‘langosta’, he also had beer cigarettes, potatoes, beetroot and cabbage - sheer luxury.

Wednesday 6th February 2013

Following our 09:00 delivery from the boat man ‘Jacob’ of fresh Kuna bread, 12 Cokes and half a dozen bananas, we had breakfast before weighing anchor. We were a little concerned as to whether we needed a trip line with the anchor firmly dug in behind a log on the sea bed. We shouldn’t have been concerned as the whole log came up with the anchor! It took a bit of shaking to dislodge it but it eventually split under its own waterlogged
weight and we were free to motor the narrow exit from the anchorage.

Once cleared to the East we rounded the South of Guarladup and unfurled the genoa for a peaceful sail west along the Mayflower Channel. Sotto Vento passed close by and we spoke with Richard Smith about having the sewing machine to repair our spray hood and bimini. We learnt that his problems were with his mainsail having been made too large and not being able to properly tension it. When he went to furl it, it took the halyard with it and after destroying the upper swivel, jammed half in and out! They ended up having to sail-tie the main around the mast to prevent further
damage until they could get in somewhere and sort it all out.

Babe were rapidly approaching Porvenir having crossed from Cartegena and came on the radio as they had heard us taking to Sotto Vento. They estimated they would be in around 16:00 and looked forward to meeting up for a beer.

Closing on the Eden Channel we noticed Lush racing up behind us. They had been following Babe and were trying to cut the corner by coming inside Chichime Cays to beat them in. We notice they were travelling at 10.5 knots and so started our engine and motor-sailed to make sure they didn’t get in before us and take the best space!

We ended up back in the same position we were in a few days ago, when we checked-in, quite close to where Babe had anchored ten minutes before us. Lush made two attempts to anchor in a more exposed position to the East of us before having to motor around Salt Rock reef to anchor south of there.

We took the rib over to Babe for a reunion beer and offered to take them ashore for a wander later. We both went ashore around 17:30 and first had a beer on the South-East side of the runway, where we had previously eaten with Yantina and Chinook almost a week before. It appeared less busy than the last time we were there so we decided to try the other restaurant on the opposite side of the runway, behind the Customs building. The food was much better here than at the other restaurant and we had a great time until we were thrown out when they closed at 21:00 after paying
the exorbitant bill of $44 for two bottles of wine, four beers and four chicken dinners!

Daily run – 17 miles; Position 09 33’ N 78 57’ W; Wind NNE F4;

Thursday 7th February 2013

This morning we had to ‘check-out’ of the Sand Blas Islands so took the dinghy ashore to the Customs Office. Having completed the formalities at a cost of another $16, we found Paul and Trish running down the runway with arms outstretched......

We all went across to the ‘village’ which was the neighbouring island of Wichubwala for a wander around and to check out the only local shop. We also found Mary’s Scarlett Bakery where we had to return after thirty minutes for the fresh bread which by then, would be out of the oven.

On the way back to the boat, we completed a circumnavigation of Wichubwala and Nalunega to the South. As we got back to the boat Yantina, Pearl of Persia, Sotto Vento and Proteus had all arrived in the anchorage. Babe decided to stop the night and we all went back to the same restaurant as the night before. This time we were twenty one people around the table – the choice was simple, chicken or fish, red or white Chilean wine and beer. We were well looked after again for the princely sum of $15 per head.

Friday 8th February 2013

Up early and put the dinghy on the davits while having my first coffee. Pearl of Persia started to raise their anchor and motor off as I finished the dinghy. Susan appeared shortly after, fully dressed and ready for the off. We had a cup of tea and coffee while Yantina also left the anchorage then we too raised our anchor and motored slowly between the reefs on our way to Portobello, departing at 07:30.

The day-sail was uneventful with us motor-sailing close-hauled at times and directly into the wind at others. Conditions improved as we rounded the corner at Punta Del Cortesa before rounding Drake Island (where Sir Frances is rumoured to be buried) on the entrance to Portobello. A beautiful natural harbour, originally discovered by Christopher Columbus on 2nd November 1502  which went on to become the most important port for the shipment of South and Central American gold and silver back to Seville. Between the years of 1574 and 1702, forty-five fleets of galleons departed here with no less than thirty million pesos of riches on each. 

The Church of San Felipe de Portobello is also the home of the famous Black Christ of Portobello, a wooden statue of Jesus of Nazareth.

That evening we all went to Captain Jacks for dinner picking up Joe from Quester on our way, the crews of Yantina, Sotto Vento, Pearl of Persia and Quester – fifteen of us in total. The reataurant was fun but we had to wait for three hours before we were all fed and we were not that impressed with our food! 

As we made to leave the restaurant, the heavens opened and we had torrential rain while we all took temporary shelter where we could. We managed to get back to the dinghies without getting too wet, but having once left the dock we were soaked to the core by another unavoidable downpour. It became a case of stripping off before you got into the cockpit on our return!

Daily run – 43 miles; Position 09 33’ N 79 40’ W; Wind NNW F3/4;

Saturday 9th February 2013

Sotto Vento and Quester raced out of the anchorage before the 08:00 radio net, in what appeared to be a race to Shelter Bay. An hour later they were followed by Yantina and Pearl of Persia.  We had a leisurely breakfast and then took the dinghy into Portobello town.

We visited the Black Christ, the old Customs House and the couple of shops. While outside the Customs house a pickup truck came around selling fresh fruit and vegetables. We purchased tomatoes, cucumber, pineapple and oranges for less than $3 which was loaded up in the dinghy.

The return trip back to the boat took in a detour past the ruins of Fort San Jeronimo, across the mouth of the river Cascajl, around Careening Cove passing under the ruins of Fort Fernando around Iron Castle Point and across to Drake Island but were unable to land the dinghy to see if Sir Frances was still there, although he is reputed to have been buried there.

Two other Oysters had arrived while we were on our tour so we went and welcomed Legend and Om Shanti to the anchorage before finally returning with our shopping.

A lazy afternoon was followed by a quiet night in preparation for the busy time anticipated in Shelter Bay. We need to clean the bilge/repair the VHF and bathing platform light just for starters!

Sunday 10th February 2013

We had the engine on and raised the anchor at 09:00 for the short run across to Shelter Bay. Approaching the breakwater to Limon Bay there were dozens of ships at anchor, some waiting to enter, some having completed their transits with others waiting for cargo or orders. We took a meandering route though these slumbering giants before talking to Christobell control for permission to enter the main channel through the breakwater and on to Shelter Bay Marina, to the West but just inside the breakwater.

Having actually entered the marina, with no response to our radio calls, rigged ready with fenders and lines for the bows and starboard side to in C39, we were instructed at the last moment to go to D36 arriving at 12:30. This meant that although we would be bow and starboard side to, we would have the stern to the wind instead of the bow.

During the afternoon, we settled in making everything secure, connecting the shore power and washing the boat. Early evening we retired to the marina bar for a sundowner only to find they had laid on Karaoke. Susan was in her element and it took some time before she was able to be dragged away to bed!

Daily run – 16 miles; Position 09 22.05’ N 79 57.04’ W; Wind NNE F4;